怎樣拍出漂亮風景照 - 10個入門技巧
風景照一直也是很多攝影師的最愛，筆者也不例外！但是怎樣可以拍攝出動人有氣勢的風景照呢? 讓我介紹一下10個基本技巧，希望各位新手也能拍出漂亮的風景照！
(1) 注意景深
Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbatty/1110596571/}Tbatty{/link}
大光圈能做成淺景深而小光圈能做成深景深，拍攝風景照時大多數情況下也想景物清晰銳利，因此常用的光圈值為f/8或更小(如f/16)，務求令相片內的景物不會因為光圈太大而令景深過淺做成模糊。
(2) 使用三腳架
因為光圈縮小了，所以快門速度便會減慢，而為了避免相機受手震的影響，我們最好使用三腳架來拍攝，特別是在光線不足的情況下。
Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/mbiskoping/492793065/}martin{/link}
(3) 好好構圖
構圖是一門大學問，攝影新手在拍攝風景照時可以多留意前景、中景和背景的結合，出來的效果會比較平衡和有深度。有關構圖我們會在以後的文章再作詳細討論。
利用石頭來作前景 Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/sicalufakiss/3189355853/}~ Aaron Reed ~{/link}
(4) 拍攝大自然的動態
大自然其實有很多會動的東西，如被風吹動的花草樹木，宏偉的瀑布或潺潺流水，我們可以利用慢快門來捕捉這些大自然的景物，拍攝流水時緊記裝上三腳架。
Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/timthom/952564117/}Tim Thompson{/link}
Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/sicalufakiss/3078850275/}~ Aaron Reed ~{/link}
(5) 善用Golden Hours
Golden hours就是指日出日落前後大約半小時，這時太陽在地平線的附近，光線透過雲層的散射變得很柔和，而且色溫在天空由暖到冷或漫天金黃色，形成魔幻般的效果，因此又稱為Magic Hours。但美好的東西通常是短暫的，所以各位如果要拍攝Golden hours下的風景便要好好計劃時間和地點了。
香港白泥 Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/traveller/2999546054/}hk_traveller{/link}
(6) 任何天氣也能拍攝
大自然變化萬千，不只是天朗氣清時才能拍攝，其實在下雨、雷暴、颱風下景物也會有不同的特別表現，我們可以賞試於這些天氣下拍攝。
Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/sjarvinen/294263216/}sjarvinen{/link}
(7) 注意水平線
拍攝風景照時水平線比較重要，我們要留意水平線是否平直和有否善用黃金分割，大家定當留意。
Photo by {link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuellar/2892004338/}cuellar{/link}
(8) 改變視角
於之前的文章12個提升攝影創意的技巧提到我們可以從高處或低處拍攝，其實這個也可以應用於風景拍攝，多試用不同的角度來拍攝，會令相片更加有趣和特別！
Photo from {link:http://www.eyefetch.com/image.aspx?ID=25660}Eyefetch{/link}
(9) 善用引導線條
引導線就是指一些由景物組成的線條，引導讀者的焦點到某一特定的主體，例子如彎曲的小徑，路邊一列的欄杆，甚至是交通燈柱也可以，這樣的相片往往令人覺得有趣和有"主題"，新手應該多尋找這樣的"引導線"。
Photo by Douglas Roane
(10) 使用合適的ISO值
除非光線真的太昏暗或風太大令花草移動，否則拍攝風照時最好使用最低的ISO值(如ISO100或ISO200)拍攝，有需要時配合三腳架，務求令風景保留細節和保持銳利，拍攝RAW檔案也利於作後期修改。
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21 Comments
Trackbacks
- 教你拍出動人日落 | 攝影入門 Photography Tips for Beginners
- 入門構圖技巧 | 攝影入門 Photography Tips for Beginners
- 攝影必學：構圖之黃金分割 | 攝影入門 Photography Tips for Beginners
Hi Alex, I must say you are really a photographer with HEART. I like your website very much. Concepts are clear and easy to understand with photo illustrations. Most of the tips mentioned here are very useful.
I used to be a film SLR user, just started to pick up my interests in photography using DSLR a 3 weeks ago.
There are a lot more skills (I should say, gadgets) to learn from a Digital SLR vs. a Film SLR, but what you have shared in this website are fabulous. I learned a lot from your tips and they helped me shoot really nice photos, notwithstanding I only started DSLR shooting for 3 weeks.
Many thanks again and keep up the good work. I will provide continuous support & encouragement to your site.
If you have time, share more with us.
Rose Li
Hi Rose,
Thanks a lot for your support! It's very great to hear that you like fotobeginner.com and find it useful!
I am a beginner who still needs to learn a lot more. Believe it or not, I can also benefit from what I write when I do the research or information seeking. I also have a facebook and MSN account. Anyone interested can find the info at http://www.fotobeginner.com/about/
Thanks!
Alex
哈,拍攝技巧Level又升了一級!(雖然我我能力值仍是很低=.=)
感覺這是個很有心的網站,讓我這個攝影初哥可以學多一點,感激!
谢谢Alex的辛苦和努力，每次来到你的网站都有一些新的感受和进步，谢谢你！
Hi Alex,
As a beginner of DSRL, those info you have given are very useful and practical.
I did reserched lots of other websites giving out the like info, just cannot be understood easily like yours.
Thanks a lot!
Allan Cheung
i like ur web, good for begin. hope i can join ur photo trip in some day. i took a image at Ma Wan in last summer, give me some suggect. ^0^ thanks
Hi Alex.
我想问，大光圈是不是f/1.4-4, 小光圈是不是f/3.5-5.6, 是不是这样看的？
然后，大光圈能做成淺景深而小光圈能做成深景深，是怎样看的？
我相信你對光圈有點混淆：
控制光圈的大小就可以控制入光量，而光圈值係以 f/xx 來表示，分母 xx 越細，光圈值就越大；分母 xx 越大，光圈值就越細。但大多數人都習慣只講 xx，所以 1.4, 1.8, 2, 2.8 就係大光圈，而 11, 16, 22 就會被稱為細光圈。
因著鏡片物料及鏡頭構造等的原因所限，每一支定焦鏡都有一個最大光圈值，如 50mm f/1.8，它的最大光圈值就係 1.8; 而變焦鏡就因著它的多焦段而可能係不同的焦段有不同的最大光圈值（所以恒定光圈的鏡頭好貴），如 EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS ，它係焦距 18mm 時的最大光圈值就係 3.5，係焦距 55mm 時的最大光圈值就係 5.6。
關於"大光圈能做成淺景深而小光圈能做成深景深"，請參考”光圈與景深的關係”（http://www.fotobeginner.com/126/aperture-and-depth-of-field/）
Dear Sirs,
I'm a beginner of DSLR application.
Once I try to shoot a item with different Tv,
e.g. 1/60 looks whiter (close to the real situation) than 1/10 which looks RED, why is it like this ?
I understand 1/10 is slower than 1/60, is it taking the average exposure in this period ?
Please advise with thanks.
Za
Hello alex
i like your website is really usefull your
" concepts " are clear and easy to understand
support and highly appreciate
thanks
Hi Alex
Your Website is great. As I am a new user of DSLR, may you have time to share some experiences on using Nikon D90.
新手, 受教了! 每次都有收穫,是該留個言! 支持!
好想學雜誌果種人像攝影A~果個屬於邊一種攝影風格呢~同埋果D COURSE 邊到有得上呢?THX
Alex,
你好, 閱讀你的攝影教學真的獲益良多, 非常感謝! 現有一關於嚗光問題想請教, 例如發覺要拍攝的環境光線不足的時侯不是應該將光圈加大嗎, 為甚麼要加減ev值呢? 而兩者又有何分別? 煩請解我疑惑, Thanks...
Hi Sunny,
謝謝你的支持！
你的問題也是新手常常遇到的！其實大前題是你在使用那一個模式拍攝：
若果你是用全手動模式，加大光圈會使相機於同一時間內吸收更多光線，因此相片會變光，所以你的答案是正確的！
但若果你是用半自動模式，如光圈先決、快門先決等，你把光圈調大，相機會自動因應你的變化來改變快門值，因此相機吸收的光線總數是相同的，相片不會變光。要令相機按它認為對的入光量再調光(或暗)，你必須使用+/-EV來作手動曝光補償才可以！
Alex
Thanks a lot, Alex.
我之前去張家界, 唔知/唔識利用"景深", 一味用大光圈(Canon S95 - F2.0), 唔怪得知我有時影啲相, 睇唔清楚遠景啦... 真係嘥左個張家界trip~~~
我喜歡這個網站，因為我是的初學者。
會常常光顧這裡！
加油！